Our latest 45 Degree MC meet was based at Craigallan, the Rucksack Club’s Scottish hut above Ballachulish. Founded in Manchester in 1902, the Rucksack Club is one of Britain’s oldest mountaineering clubs, with a long history of climbing, hillwalking and exploration, and Craigallan is one of a small number of huts that continue that tradition today.

At first glance, Craigallan appears an unlikely mountain retreat. Sitting just off the A828, it is far closer to the road than many Highland huts, and arriving for the first time you might wonder how secluded it can really be. Yet once through the door, that impression quickly disappears. Sheltered by trees on the drive, the hut has a remarkably private feel. The real surprise awaits in the conservatory, where the view opens out dramatically across Loch Linnhe to the mountains of Ardgour beyond, providing a panorama that constantly draws the eye until last light.

With Glencoe only minutes away and some of Scotland’s finest mountaineering within easy reach, Craigallan provided an ideal base for a weekend of hill days, good company and the usual blend of planning, reminiscing and exaggeration that accompanies any successful club meet.

The Rucksack Clubs Craigallan Hut with Loch Linnhe in the background (Rucksack Club)

Members attending: Jim Aire, John Calder,George Henderson, Mike Partington, Pete Smith, Graeme Wilmott, Mike Winton, Tim Woodcock.

FRIDAY

After a couple of late call-offs, we eventually had a semi-respectable turnout of eight members for the weekend. As is traditional, the arrivals followed the usual pattern: the retirees were first on the scene, while the unfortunates still employed dribbled in later after serving out their sentences at work.

The drive through Glencoe was every bit as spectacular as ever, with the towering mountains looking their magnificent selves. Progress was slowed by the usual procession of vehicles stopping abruptly in the middle of the road whenever a particularly photogenic mountain came into view. Indicators were regarded as entirely optional, with drivers instead favouring the element of surprise as they slammed on the brakes for yet another photo opportunity.

Eventually, after negotiating the traffic, avoiding impromptu photography sessions and successfully bypassing the worst of the tourist hotspots, everyone made it to the hut safely and in good spirits, ready for the weekend ahead. Mike was the only club member to admit to getting a head start on the weekend. His original plan had been to tackle the four eastern Mamores with Wallace, but after taking one look at the weather and another at a full breakfast in Fort William, the breakfast won by a comfortable margin. With the rain still hammering down afterwards, he headed up Glen Nevis to inspect Steall Falls, which was in full spate and completely ruled out any thought of crossing below it.

By then thoroughly soaked, he continued up Sgurr Choinnich Mòr, a hill last visited some 36 years previously. Fortunately, the weather finally relented on the descent, allowing for a much drier walk back to the Upper Glen Nevis car park.

Steall falls in spate (Mike Winton)

Friday evening was spent catching up, discussing the following day’s adventures and daring to believe that Scotland might finally navigate the World Cup group stages with a result against Morocco. Optimism was in plentiful supply – much like the whisky – and with every dram the prospects of a famous result for Scotland seemed increasingly realistic.

Unfortunately, Scotland stayed true to their long-established reputation and contrived to disappoint in spectacular fashion. With dreams of footballing glory swiftly extinguished, members drifted off to bed, hoping for rather more success in the mountains than the national team had managed on the pitch, and keen to get some shut-eye ahead of the next day’s activities.

Summing up the members feelings after the game (The Guardian)

SATURDAY

Saturday dawned with considerably better weather than the previous day. Between the eight members attending, no fewer than five different routes and objectives had been established. After everyone had enjoyed breakfast and made the obligatory checks that they had remembered boots, maps and assorted bits of kit, the party dispersed, heading off on a mixture of solo and group adventures. With plenty of ambitious undertakings on the cards, the club’s members soon scattered in pursuit of their chosen missions.

Mike W teamed up with Tim to take on the route that had failed to compete with a full breakfast the previous day, the four Eastern Mamores. What followed was an excellent and suitably strenuous day over the four Munros, with fine views and plenty of ascent. Progress was somewhat hampered by an ill-advised “shortcut” on the approach to the third Munro, Binnein Mòr. As is often the case in the hills, the shortcut proved to be anything but, involving considerably more effort and muttered observations than the conventional route would likely have required. Nevertheless, the pair completed the round successfully and returned to the hut satisfied after a good long day in the hills.

Mike on the ‘shortcut’ to Binnein Mòr (Tim Woodcock)

Looking across to Am Bodach and Sgurr an Fhurain (Tim Woodcock)

Graeme had devised an ambitious loop from Invercharnan in Glen Etive, taking in Sgòr na h-Ulaidh (and its top), Beinn Fhionnlaidh and Beinn Sgulaird. Having been mostly clagged in on the summits, the sun did poke through and the views opened up from time to time. It proved to be a challenging undertaking, with much of the route being steep and pathless, making for a highly physical day from start to finish. While the summits were gained without incident, the 8km descent back towards Glen Etive was particularly taxing, the final 5km consisting largely of tussock-hopping and shoulder-high bracken that made progress painfully slow. As compensation, the Joak-O-Meter remained reassuringly high, with only one other soul encountered on the entire route. It was a glorious evening making the final 5km road walk along Glen Etive to the car much more enjoyable.  Arriving back at the hut feeling like a thoroughly burst baw but immensely satisfied.

Graeme on Beinn Sgulaird summit, last summit of the day (Graeme Wilmott)

Local wildlife enjoying the evening sun in Glen Etive (Graeme Wilmott)

Pete headed for Torlundy and the North Face car park for an ascent of Carn Mòr Dearg and the CMD Arête. Sunshine at the start soon gave way to colder, claggier conditions higher up, with patches of lingering snow still adorning the mountain. Despite the lack of views, the CMD Arête was as enjoyable and atmospheric as ever, providing a wonderfully quiet approach to Ben Nevis. The peace was shattered on nearing the summit, where voices emerged from the cloud long before the crowds themselves came into view. The summit and tourist path were exceptionally busy, with walkers from all corners of the globe streaming up and down what felt more like a motorway than a mountain path. Unsurprisingly, the Joak-O-Meter registered absolutely no movement whatsoever at this point. Thankfully, once off the main track and contouring back towards the northern flank of the mountain, the crowds quickly disappeared, the sun reappeared, and a much quieter finish to a classic round was enjoyed before returning to the hut.

CMD Arete looking moody and atmospheric (Pete Smith)

Looking to the Bens North Face (Pete Smith)

Joak headed out from Kinlochleven for a circuit of three Mamores Munros; Na Gruagaichean, Stob Coire a’ Chairn and Am Bodach. The weather was kind, with occasional low cloud adding a bit of atmosphere rather than causing any navigational challenges, while a cooling breeze helped make for pleasant walking conditions. The official Joak-O-Meter reading has yet to be released, but early indications suggest it was comfortably above average.

Looking back to Loch Leven on the ascent to Na Gruagaichean (Joak Calder)

Joak with Binnein Mor and Na Gruagaichean in the background (Joak Calder)

George, Jim and Mike P opted for Bidean nam Bian via the zigzags. Unfortunately, despite boasting well over a century of navigational experience between them, the elusive zigzags proved more than a match for the three seasoned hill-goers. After several unsuccessful attempts to locate the correct route, they wisely abandoned the plan and headed into the Lost Valley before ascending by the more conventional line. The weather was kind throughout and the hill was busy with plenty of other walkers, including a particularly large and enthusiastic group whose exploration of Glen Coe appeared to involve occupying a substantial proportion of it. Despite the navigational setback, all three enjoyed a fine day on one of Scotland’s most impressive mountains.

Jim kin ye see the zigzags? Naw a’ cannae! (Mike Partington)

Whit aboot you Mike? Nae zigzags, but the surfin’s magic! (George Henderson)

Ach weel, wha’ needs zigzags wi’ views like this! (Mike Partington)

SATURDAY NIGHT

Back at the hut, attention turned to refuelling and discussing the day’s triumphs over a few welcome drams – many thanks to George and Mike W for sharing some particularly fine examples. As the evening wore on, the entertainment ranged from cloud spotting and spirited debate over what various formations resembled, to an excellent musical interlude. Huge thanks are due to Tim, whose low-key performance struck exactly the right chord and provided the perfect soundtrack to a relaxed evening after some demanding days in the hills. It should not be taken for granted that those willing to put in a full day on the mountains are also prepared to entertain the rest of us afterwards, and it was greatly appreciated by all present. Tim wasn’t left to carry the evening alone, however, as we were also treated to an impromptu performance from another guest staying at the hut who had travelled up from England. A grand end to a grand day.

SUNDAY

Sunday morning saw the usual cleaning operation in full swing. I won’t bore you with the details, but needless to say the hut was left in a significantly higher standard of cleanliness than when we found it.

Most members then pointed their cars towards home, but a couple had other ideas. Both Tim and George headed down Glen Etive, albeit separately and with rather different plans. Tim was in search of a refreshing recovery swim, and a geology lesson, in some cool Highland water.

Tim had the minerals for a dip down Glen Etive (Tim Woodcock)

Meanwhile George was meeting up with his brother-in-law to extend the weekend. This involved a stay at the Glen Etive hut and a suitably unorthodox route on and off Stob na Bròige, followed by some well-earned relaxation and a spot of fishing.

Off the beaten track for trek up Stob na Bròige (George Henderson)

You should have seen the one that got away! (George Henderson)

A fittingly gentle end to what had been an excellent weekend of hills, music, whisky and good company.

Next meet: Strawberry Cottage in Glen Affric……see you there!