Craigallan Hut, Ballachulish, 8th – 10th December 2023

The last club meet of 2023 saw us visit, what was for us, a new hut.  More of a large holiday-home than a club hut (I actually drove past it thinking, “that can’t be it”!).

Overlooking Loch Linnhe, Craigallan is situated about 2 miles from Ballachulish on the A828 to Oban, below the Western flanks of Beinn a’ Bheithir.  The “hut” enjoys a slightly elevated position above the road, with views across to Morvern.  It has all the facilities required, with a large & well-equipped Kitchen; Drying Room; 12 Bunks across two rooms upstairs (& space for up to 6 more in the Lounge); Toilets/wc & showers on both floors (though one of those was out of action on this stay).  There’s Parking for up to 8 cars within the grounds (& more along the short track in from the main road); a large Dining/Sitting Room (mixed fuel stove); the aforesaid large Lounge (electric fire) and a Conservatory overlooking Loch Linnhe and Ardgour/Kingairloch.Unlike many of the places we stay, camping is permitted when the hut is full (standard hut rates apply), with due consideration given to occupants of neighbouring properties.  Further details can be found here link.

Members Attending

John Calder; Raymond Evenden; James Duncan Fraser; Tanya Anne MacKenzie; Alyn McNaughton; Norrie Shand; Lorn Smith; Ewan Stewart; Gerry Weir; Mike Winton.

Guests

Rosemary MacDonald.

Friday

The weekend’s weather forecast was not in our favour, with Friday very wet indeed, thus ensuring no hills would be attempted on route to the hut. Most of the effort was focussed on getting to the hut safely and preparing meals on arrival. The steady stream of arrivals ensured use of the kitchen facilities was staggered before a fine, convivial evening was enjoyed around the table by the fire, the musicians keeping their powder dry for the following day.

Much of the evening was spent with an increasingly lubricated Fraz giving Tanya’s guest, Rosemary, the third degree. Much merriment ensued and it obviously wasn’t Rosemary’s first rodeo and she handled Fraz’s good-natured grilling with aplomb. Worse was to come though when Rosemary realised she’d forgotten her towel and Fraz offered her his, it sounded like it was a spare but later transpired that he was just offering to share! I’ve lost track of what happened with towel-gate, but hopefully Rosemary hasn’t been scared off forever…time will tell!

Craigallan conservatory view (Lorn Smith)

Saturday

Saturday’s weather was forecast to be better in the morning and deteriorating into the afternoon and evening so, there were a few stirring in the morning, while those in the sick bay were able to catch a little more shut eye.

First out the trap was Gerry who’d spent the night in his van in the lane and was up at 5am and away before any of the hut dwellers emerged.  He drove round to Glen Nevis and was on the hill for 7am, his target, Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean in the Mamores.  Noting that most of the previous week’s snow had almost gone, these would see Gerry’s Munro tally for the year reach a very healthy thirty-nine, some of these in good weather!  Despite the forecast, the weather was pretty decent for the time of year and the early start would ensure he was round in daylight.  Visibility was mixed, with the odd atmospheric glimpse of the rest of the Mamore ridges and the Ben.

Gerry would eventually bump into John, Alyn and Mike at the summit of Stob Ban.  They had a similar plan, to scale Stob Ban via it’s North ridge, and they walked together until Gerry stopped to attend to a wardrobe malfunction and the trio carried on, with Gerry in hot pursuit once he’d sorted his boots and gaiters out.

What a mountain Stob Ban is! (Gerry Weir)
Stob Ban – North Ridge (John Calder)

Meanwhile, back at the hut, the walking wounded were leisurely preparing themselves to venture out.  Norrie, still recuperating from his recent op, had brought along his trusty steed and set off on a cycle along Route 78, part of the Caledonia Way between Inverness and Oban.  His primary target was the highly rated Creagan Inn but, on reaching it, found it was closed!  That took the wind out of his sails a little, but undeterred he knocked out a nice 25-mile cycle on a good track.

Stalker Castle (Norrie Shand)

On Norrie’s return to Craigallan, he found Raymond inside, having returned from an all too short low-level walk when his dodgy knee gave out a short way into it, forcing him to hobble back to the hut.  Their respective pub lunch dreams shattered; the pair were able to console each other by the fire.Mister James meanwhile, also suffering with knee trouble and under Physio’s orders, decided something lower than Munro height would be the order of the day and, surprisingly, opted for a first ascent of the Pap of Glencoe.  It’s no walk in the park, but a mere pimple on the landscape to The Fraz (or Monsieur James as he can now also be known due to his French ancestry, perhaps going some way to explaining his past command of the language!).  I’m not sure his Physio would be best pleased at his hill choice, but it seemed somehow apt, given the number of times he’s oiled his joints in the shadow of the Pap over the years, that he should finally get the view from the top!

Loch Leven view from beneath The Pap (James D Fraser)

As all the others walking today headed North from the hut in pursuit of the hills, Ewan and Lorn heading South to tackle Beinn Fhionnlaidh from Glen Creran, a new one for them both.  They set off early, though not too early and hoped to be on the descent by the time the forecast deterioration arrived.  Following the standard route from this side of the hill, the previous day’s rainfall had made things pretty wet underfoot, but they made good time and were about halfway when the first shower came (and quickly went as soon as they’d donned waterproofs!).  It then remained dry until just before the summit, when the weather began to turn.  They encountered a family at this point who’d obviously set out very early and didn’t see anyone else until the descent.  They didn’t dwell at the summit, as the wind picked up and it started raining so turned and headed down for some shelter and a quick lunch break, where they were joined by four folk from another club on their way up, who were also staying at the Corran Bunkhouse.  Light rain accompanied them for the remainder of the walk back to the car, negotiating the now even boggier lower reaches and were glad to get back to the warmth of the hut.

A hazy Loch Creran & beyond from the upper reaches of Beinn Fhionnlaidh (Lorn Smith)

Arguably, the toughest choice of the day was Tanya Anne and Rosemary’s ascent of Sgor na h-Ulaidh.  Sometimes referred to as the forgotten or hidden Munro, sandwiched between Bidean Nam Bian and Beinn Fhionnlaidh, the intrepid duo planned a direct assault on their target (ignoring the nearby Corbett, Meall Lighiche).  They expected steep and steep is what they got, but they soldiered on and achieved their goal in, at times, challenging conditions.  Amazingly, this was Rosemary’s first Munro so, between Tanya Anne and Fraz, it would be perfectly understandable if we never did see Rosemary again!!  Back at the hut though she’d clearly enjoyed the experience though and I’m sure she’ll be back among the Scottish hills, where she’ll have her pick of easier days than this one.

Bealach Easan – between Meall Ligiche & Sgor na h-Ulaidh (Tanya-Ann MacKenzie)
It’s a thumbs-up from Rosemary! (Tanya-Ann MacKenzie)
Ol’ six eyes is back! (Tanya-Ann MacKenzie)

Great craic ensued back in the magnificent Craigallan Hut – with a few singers making their public debut!  Definitely one to revisit (and, with that, it’s in the Calendar for July 2025).

Saturday night revelry & post-activity sports drinks aplenty (Lorn Smith)

Sunday

Today’s weather was as bad as Friday’s so, again a blank hill day. There was a failed attempt by a
small, mixed party at a swim/dip at the Meeting of the Three Waters on the way home, ultimately
ruled-out due to the unpredictable force of the water passing through (& prospect of a long drop).

Not to be defeated, Tanya Anne and Rosemary rose to the challenge and did manage to break some
ice and get in for a dip along Glen Spean on their way home.

The Meeting of the Three Waters (Lorn Smith)

Meanwhile, the menfolk were almost all to be found a few miles down the road having breakfast/
brunch within the warm confines of the Real Food Café!

Until next time!

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